Dreamy, oceanfront Aragosta, Deer Isle, woos dining and overnight guests with its quiet, away-from-it-all location and eco-conscious ways, seducing them with an easy and comfy cottage style and nationally recognized, locally sourced, scratch-made fare. The latter earned chef/owner Devin Finigan semifinalist status in the 2020 James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef Northeast Award .
I first visited this property on Deer Isle, connected by bridge and causeway to the tip of the Blue Hill peninsula, when it was known as the Goose Cove Lodge. I fell in love with it. Cottages pepper lush, mossy spruce-dominated woodlands, and guest suites open off the lodge’s deck. Almost all accommodations have views over the lawn, rosa rugosa, and sand beach out to open ocean. Eagles nest on nearby islands, including the adjacent Barred Island preserve. And the open, bi-level dining room and lounge is designed so that every table takes in that eye-candy view.
Cottage style
Finigan restored the shine to this property. Cottages and guestrooms are decorated with a light hand in an easy, breezy, rustic style that gives the views center stage. Most have a deck, and all cottages have kitchenettes.
My husband and I stayed in the Elm Cottage, which is closest to the waterfront. As soon as I saw it, I knew I wouldn’t want to leave. Like the other accommodations, it is exactly what I think of when dreaming about an oceanfront Maine cottage. Sure, it had the requisite deck overlooking the water, but I couldn’t resist the lure of the two Adirondack chairs set just so on the patch of lawn. Heaven!
I managed to peek into a few of the suites. Like the cottages, they’re decorated in a contemporary cottage style emphasizing comfort and view. Each of these spacious suites opens onto a deck that wraps around two sides of the lodge.
Nationally recognized dining at Aragosta, Deer Isle
I was first introduced to Chef Finigan during at stay at the Blue Hill Inn. I still drool when thinking about her lobster ravioli. When she moved to an harborfront property in Stonington, I made a point of enjoying lunch there when in the area. It never disappointed. Now she has a setting that matches her talents and style.
Breakfast is included for overnight guests, but my first meal was dinner on the day we arrived. The menu changes seasonally, featuring what’s fresh and local. At first it was hard to focus on the menu, as the views competed, albeit unsuccessfully, with the amuse plate. But when our appetizers arrived, the sunset couldn’t complete with the views or tastes on our plates. The tempura-fried peekytoe “crab rangoon” squash blossom, served with charred lemon aioli, pickled red onion, and micro pea shoots, and the Stonington lobster dumplings, with chef’s garden garlic, brodo, and micro greens, stole the show.
And those were only the opening act. My Stonington lobster casoncelli awakened my memories of Finigan’s skills. Served with Fine Line Farm micro greens, beurre blanc, and gremolata, it was sublime. My husband’s wood-roasted surf n turf, a Misty Brook Farm filet mignon paired with Stonington lobster, scallop, pomme puree, chanterelle-caramelized onion butter took away his conversational abilities, leaving only happy mmmms.
We were still under dinner’s spell when we returned for breakfast the next morning. Unfortunately, it wasn’t quite warm enough to sit outside on the expansive deck. No matter, the views were the same from inside. I opted for an omelet, my husband went for the blueberry pancakes. Absolutely delicious and a fine way to fuel a hike in the Barred Island Preserve.
Exploring Deer Isle
Aragosta is well sited for exploring Deer Isle: visiting galleries and artist studios, browsing shops, visiting Nervous Nellie’s, hiking the many trails managed by the Island Heritage Trust, joining a guided sea kayaking day trip, or taking the day boat to Isle au Haut to explore Acadia National Park’s trails. But honestly, it’s hard to leave this property.
All I wanted to do was sit in those Adirondack chairs and watch the tide turn.
