Checking-in: Dunes on the Waterfront, Ogunquit

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White cottages behind picket fences have views to the ocean.
The dreamy Dunes on the Waterfront features white picket fences, white clapboard cottages with green shutters, lovely gardens, shade trees, and paths made from shells. (©Hilary Nangle)

Ogunquit’s dreamy Dunes on the Waterfront could be a Hollywood set. White picket fences set off the adorable one- to three-bedroom white clapboard cottages trimmed with green shutters spread out on grassy lawns, with shade trees and colorful gardens. The property edges the tidal Ogunquit River and takes its name from the dunes separating the river from the beach beyond.

The cottage colony reopened in May, and I went in mid-July to see the changes new owner Tim Harrington had made. Harrington, known for taking tired or dated properties and turning them into luxury destinations, has left his mark on numerous inns in the Kennebunks and on Mount Desert Island.

Former devotees of The Dunes—many who’ve been returning for generations—may not like the upscaling of the classic cottages. Nor may they be able to afford the rates, which begin at around $1,000 per night (which includes numerous perks). But Harrington knows his clientele; they’ll love the Dunes on the Waterfront.

Inside a Dunes on the Waterfront cottage

collage depiciting the cottage from exterior, view of patio from inside, and living room
Clockwise from top left: my cottage, water glimpses from the living room over the patio, living room. (Hilary Nangle)

The door to my one-bedroom cottage opened into the living room, with French doors at one end opening to a patio with Adirondack-style chairs and distant water views. The jaunty nautical décor included a steamer trunk-style coffee table, an elaborate coral chandelier, waves painted on dresser drawers, seascapes, and a sailor’s valentine. The white-and-beige color palette had small pops of color and pattern. Outlets and ports were plentiful, and a small Bose speaker was in the living room.

My cottage’s comfy furnishings, with gas fireplaces and TVs in the bedroom and the living room, encouraged relaxing and putting my feet up. When temperatures cooled, I pulled a small blanket draped on a chair over my legs for warmth. Perfect!

Collage depicting snacks and drinks provided in the cottage and the hallway pantry.
The hallway between the living room and bedroom served as a pantry. (©Hilary Nangle)

A well-equipped kitchenette in the hallway separating the living room and bathroom offered a microwave, a toaster, and a two-drawer fridge. Soft drinks, juices, and a bottle of rose filled one drawer, and an ice maker was in the other. A basket on the counter held a range of snacks, from cookies to popcorn. Adjacent to it was a Nespresso machine with supplies, but alas, no electric kettle for making tea. The rate includes snacks and drinks. Shelves above the counter held dishes and glasses (surprisingly, no wine glasses), and a drawer held silverware.

collage depicting the bedroom and bathroom
The bedroom in my cottage had a kingsize bed, fireplace, TV, chandelier made of ‘coral,’ a dresser painted with a wave pattern, and an attached bath. (©Hilary Nangle)

The spacious bedroom had a king-size bed with top-notch bedding and linens. Nightstands with reading lights bookended the bed. Cozy robes were in the closet. The en suite bathroom had a large shower and a spacious vanity. The only thing missing was a full-length mirror.

Amenities and Extras at the Dunes on the Waterfront

The outdoor heated pool at the Dunes on the Waterfront
Choose from braving the chilly Atlantic or lounging beside the heated outdoor pool. (©Hilary Nangle)

When I checked in at the lodge, the desk attendant offered me a welcome glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne; nice! The lodge also has coffee and hot water for tea (Harney tea, excellent!). You can order coffee drinks, light breakfasts, and snack boards at the small bar where cookies magically appear every afternoon.

collage depicting the docksa and watercraft and beach equipment at The Dunes.
Two docks on the Ogunquit River make getting across to the beach at high tide easy, and guests can pick up beach equipment at the lodge. (©Hilary Nangle)

The Dunes makes it easy to cocoon within the colony and not deal with crowds. Grassy lawns with gardens and mature trees surround the cottages. Guests can use two waterfront docks, one with paddleboards and kayaks and the other with row boats, to cross the river and get to the beach. A shuttle boat also operates occasionally, but not while I was there. Guests can stop in the lodge to pick up a beach bag, beach chairs, and an umbrella.

Sign for The Dunes with cottages beyond.
Snag a lounge chair with an ocean view at The Dunes on the Waterfront in Ogunquit (©Hilary Nangle)

A good-sized outdoor heated pool is rimmed with lounge chairs and umbrellas and has a couple of floating doughnuts for guests to flop upon. Its views earned it a place on my list of Maine’s best outdoor pools with ocean views. Beyond the pool and closer to the river is a firepit rimmed by chairs; s’mores kits are available in the lodge. Lawn games are available, and yoga is offered twice weekly.

street-legal golf cart for shuttles
Shuttles to downtown Ogunquit, Footbridge Beach, and Main Beach are available via golf cart. (©Hilary Nangle)

The Dunes also offers a local shuttle service on a street-legal golf cart. It makes scheduled runs to Footbridge Beach, Main Beach, and downtown. In addition, you can request a shuttle at any time, and if staff is available, they’ll take you. The temps and humidity were miserable during my visit, so I availed myself of the service a few times.

There’s no need to leave

Mediterranean box and glass of rose on patio table
I relaxed on the patio with a glass of rose and a Mediterranean box for dinner. Two docks on the Ogunquit River make getting across to the beach at high tide easy, and guests can pick up beach equipment at the lodge. (©Hilary Nangle)

Now, about that cocooning. A pastry of the day from Bread & Roses Bakery is delivered to the cottage every morning, and light fare is available to order before 4 pm. On my first night, not wanting to try to dine out on a weekend without reservations, I ordered a Mediterranean plate ( a generous bento-style box with feta cheese, Greek olives, hummus, pickled onions, prosciutto, and crackers). About 15 minutes later, a staff member delivered it to me, and I took that and a glass of wine out on the patio for a lovely evening.

The next night, it was raining, and again, I didn’t want to fight the crowds and rain, so I pulled the Mediterranean plate out of the fridge drawer and enjoyed more of that. Another option is to walk to the Ogunquit Lobster Pound, next door, or just beyond that to Big Daddy’s, which makes its ice cream.

But Ogunquit awaits

College showing Ogunquit Playhouse stage, sign, and building.
Be sure to attend a show at the Ogunquit Playhouse. Two docks on the Ogunquit River make getting across to the beach at high tide easy, and guests can pick up beach equipment at the lodge. (©Hilary Nangle)

Of course, there’s plenty more to Ogunquit than the beach. One night, I went to the Ogunquit Playhouse for a fabulous evening at this summer stock theater where Broadway actors and known stars perform. Tip: If you’ll be in Ogunquit, get tickets for whatever is playing.

And don’t miss the fabulous oceanfront Ogunquit Museum of American Art.

Collage depicting Perkins Cove
A taste of Perkins Cove  (©Hilary Nangle)

Most excursion boats depart from Perkins Cove, a jumble of former fish shacks turned into shops and restaurants. A pedestrian draw bridge crosses the cozy harbor. I enjoyed a meaty lobster roll at the Lobster Shack, a rustic spot with indoor tables and air-conditioning, but other options are on the menu.

collage depicting the Marginal Way
Ogunquit’s paved Marginal Way footpath skirts the cliff, passes pocket beaches, and offers grand views. Two docks on the Ogunquit River make getting across to the beach at high tide easy, and guests can pick up beach equipment at the lodge. (©Hilary Nangle)

The Marginal Way, a paved footpath edging the cliffs and pocket beaches, connects Perkins Cove with the downtown. I shopped my way from downtown to Perkins Cove and then returned along this historical path, stopping often to sit on a bench and savor the views.

Final thoughts

The Dunes on the Waterfront’s staff are perhaps its most vital asset. They’re friendly and eager to help. Whenever I stopped to ask someone a question, they eagerly replied or offered to get the answer. When I went to the lodge to order the Mediterranean plate, I missed the 4 pm cutoff by about 10 minutes, but a staff member said she could make it, suggested I return to my cottage, and she’d deliver it, which she did.

collage showing views of the coffee bar, the fireplace, and menu in the lodge
Light fare is available until 4 pm in the lodge, where you can grab a cup of tea or coffee. (©Hilary Nangle)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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