Maine’s Katahdin Woods and Waters and Moosehead Lake regions are two of the state’s greatest inland treasures. The former is home to Baxter State Park, crowned by Mount Katahdin, and the new Katahdin Woods & Waters National Monument.
You can concentrate your time in one or the other, link the two via a gravel wilderness road, or explore each from a convenient base midway between them. For village comforts and convenience, opt for Dover-Foxcroft. For a wilderness escape, stay at a traditional Maine sporting camp on West Branch Pond. (Updated July 8, 2023)
Dover-Foxcroft
This up-and-coming pretty shire town is within an hour’s drive of both Greenville and Millinocket.
Roughly an hour northwest of Bangor, Dover-Foxcroft isn’t on the tourism radar screen, but the downtown The Mill at Dover Foxcroft, a boutique hotel, is a fine place to stay when exploring both regions. The masterfully renovated mill is situated by a waterfall. Upstairs are six spacious, industrial-chic rooms.
I never pass through this region without grabbing lunch at Stutzman’s Farm Stand & Bakery, a third-generation family-owned farm. Choose between the delicious, all-you-can-eat pizza buffet ($12, including pizzas, salad, soup, dessert, and nonalcoholic beverages) and daily specials; there’s often live entertainment, too.
Chase it with a homemade, rich, creamy, grin-producing ice cream from Butterfield’s. Trust me, they get it right, they’ve been making ice cream since 1950. You’ll find Butterfield’s just northwest of downtown Dover-Foxcroft.
West Branch Pond
For a quiet sporting camp-style stay, you can’t beat rustic West Branch Pond Camps. This traditional Maine sporting camp comprises a string of lakefront cabins with woodstoves and a main lodge, where meals are taken. It’s about 10 miles east of Kokadjo (pop: not many) off the Greenville/Millinocket Road.
This remote, off-the-grid slice of heaven is not a place for fussbudgets or for those who need a cell signal or Internet access. But for those who prefer a few creature comforts, it’s a fabulous find. The daily per-person rate includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, as well as the use of canoes, kayaks, and rowboats. If there’s a chill in the air, build a fire in the woodstove for warmth.
Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument
Infrastructure is minimal at one of America’s newest National Monuments, but you can hike, canoe, kayak, fish, camp, or simply watch birds and wildlife on this 87,500-acre chunk of wilderness.
The new “Tekαkαpimək” Visitor Center is expected to open in late 2023 or early 2024. The center honors Maine’s Wabanaki nations and takes its name from the Penobscot Indian language. It means “as far as one can see.”
If you prefer to stay on paved roads, the Katahdin Woods & Waters Maine Scenic Byway edges a section of the National Monument lands. Driving it is a fine way to get a taste of this gorgeous chunk of real estate. Lauding over the landscape is Katahdin, Maine’s highest mountain and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail.
While in the Katahdin Woods and Waters Region
Getting close to Katahdin is just one of many reasons to visit Baxter State Park, a generous, fore-sighted gift to the people of Maine from former governor Percival Baxter.
Climbing Katahdin and crossing its famed Knife Edge, a 1.1-mile narrow granite spine connecting Baxter and Pamola Peaks, is best left to experienced hikers equipped for the rugged wilderness and the vagaries of weather. (Note: Baxter does not permit dogs, RVs exceeding 9H x 7W x 22L, motorcycles, motorbikes, or ATVs. And have a full tank of gas as there are no services in the park).
The West Branch of the Penobscot River, famed for whitewater rafting, flows near the park access road. Consider booking a trip with New England Whitewater Center; owner Matt Polstein is a huge promoter of the national monument. The center also offers canoeing, kayaking, lodging, and a restaurant. Ask about trips to the Ambejejus Boom House, which is accessible only by boat.
For a quick meal, pop into North Woods Trading Post. It’s the last place to stock up on anything and get Wi-fi before heading into Baxter State Park.
If you’re looking for a fancier place to stay in the area, check into the Five Lakes Lodge. This purpose-built cabin-style B&B occupies a spit of land reaching into South Twin Lake. Every room offers eye-candy views of Katahdin over the lakes. It’s the closest thing to luxury in the region. On most evenings, the owners take guests on a pontoon boat cruise for wildlife spotting. On my last visit, we saw eagles aplenty.
En Route
Treat yourself at Elaine’s Cafe & Bakery in Milo. This wonderful scratch-made bakery serves homemade doughnuts and pastries and awesome pies and pastries.
If the timing is right, while in Milo, you might also want to visit the Harrigan Museum. The archeological treasures collected by Tom and Nancy Harrigan are showcased in this purpose-built museum adjacent to the Three Rivers Kiwanis building.
Tom’s often on site when it’s open, and he’ll share his passions and tell you the stories behind his fascinating finds. This is far above the usual local historical society or amateur collector museum and is well worth a visit if you appreciate fossils, minerals, and Indian artifacts.
Moosehead Lake
The Moosehead Lake region is one of my favorites. It offers just enough creature comforts to ease the immersion into the wilderness.
While in the Moosehead Lake area
Outdoor-oriented folks can easily spend a week or longer in this area, thanks to the abundant hiking, wildlife-watching, and paddling opportunities. The Chamber of Commerce, located at the top of the hill heading into town (look for the lookout tower), can provide you with info on appropriate hikes. Or plan in advance and book a hike, moose safari, or paddle with Northwoods Outfitters.
If you’re just here for a sightseeing day trip, plan to either take a cruise aboard The Kate, a retrofitted steamship dating from the lumberjack era; hop the Kineo shuttle across the lake from Rockwood to Kineo for a hike, look-about, or a round of golf; or take a scenic float-plane tour with Currier’s.
Want to call it a night in the region? If your wallet is fat, one of the finest inns in the state is the Blair Hill Inn, a magnificent Victorian mansion with beautifully updated guestrooms, panoramic views over Moosehead, a dining room, a lounge, and a spa. It’s a Relais and Chateaux member property with an excellent restaurant (make rez well in advance).
Far less fancy is the lakefront Chalet Moosehead, with a primo location.
En Route
Monson, once known for slate, is now an arts incubator with a handful of studios and galleries. Also here is the Appalachian Trail Visitor Center. Monson is the last place for hikers to rest and resupply before the final push through the 100-Mile-Wilderness to Katahdin.
The Monson General Store is a fine place to pick up prepared sandwiches and salads or order from the menu for freshly made fare. Or, if you have a hankering for barbecue, don’t miss Spring Creek in Monson. And if you’re staying in the area, make rez well in advance to dine at The Quarry, winner of the James Beard Foundation’s 2023 outstanding Hospitality Award.
Connect Katahdin Woods and Waters with Moosehead Lake via The Golden Road
If you have a reliable car with a good spare tire and a decent amount of clearance and aren’t squeamish about driving dirt roads in the wilderness, you can link Greenville, in the Moosehead Lake region, with Millinocket, in the Baxter and Katahdin Woods and Waters region, via the Greenville and Golden roads. The rugged but scenic 71-mile drive is an adventure that often rewards drivers with sightings of moose, bear, and other wildlife.
Be aware that this is a private road, and the logging trucks own the right of way. If you see one, pull way over and get out of its way. While the road is maintained, it can be very soft after a recent grading or very rutted. It’s wise to ask for road conditions and get clear directions before attempting it. And be sure to allow enough time to be off the wilderness sections and back on tar well before sunset. You won’t have a cell signal, so be sure to have water, food provisions, and a sweater or fleece with you.
En Route
The Chesuncook Boom House is just a mile or so off the Golden Road; turn at Allagash Lake Campground (a fine place to stay, with tenting and RV sites as well as cabins). The Boomhouse, actually a former boarding house, lets you immerse in the great logging era. If you’re lucky, curator Chuck Harris will be on site. You can tour through the house and the barn on your own; a $2pp donation is requested (give more, if you can, this is a special place).
