The Berwicks aren’t on the usual tourist loop, but these southwestern Maine communities reward visitors with historical homes and literary connections. Snugged against the New Hampshire border, North and South Berwick are located fewer than 30 minutes from the coast. A rural ramble here is especially worthwhile for those who appreciate historical homes and literary heritage (authors Gladys Hasty Carroll and Sarah Orne Jewett). Updated March 6, 2023
Historical homes in the Berwicks
South Berwick is best known for two Historic New England properties. The Sarah Orne Jewett House Museum and Visitor Center is smack dab in the center of downtown South Berwick. Jewett, who penned that New England classic, The Country of the Pointed Firs, spent much of her life in this 1774 Georgian. It’s now a National Historic Landmark. The adjacent 1865 Greek Revival now houses the visitor center.
The nearby Hamilton House, a striking Georgian mansion built by shipping magnate Jonathan Hamilton in 1785, crowns a bluff overlooking the Salmon Falls River. Later owners modified it into what is now considered one of New England’s loveliest Colonial-Revival country estates. The house served as the setting for Jewett’s The Tory Lover.
While touring the property is a must for garden fans, the Sundays in the Garden series, in July, draws music lovers to late-afternoon concerts held in the perennial gardens outside the home.
Others local sights
Fans of Jewett will want to see a few other area sights. The author helped fund and design the Romanesque Revival William H. Fogg Memorial on the Berwick Academy campus. Many of the buildings 19th-century stained glass windows are credited to Victorian artist Sarah Wyman Whitman, who also designed jackets for Jewett’s books. Jewett commissioned the dove with wreath to commemorate the Civil War. Delve deeper into local history at the Old Berwick Historical Society, which also highlights Sarah Orne Jewett-related sites on its website.
A path through the forest connects Vaughan Woods State Park, a 250-acre riverside preserve, to the Hamilton House. The park, with about 3 miles of trails weaving through pines and hemlocks and along the river, is a fine place for a picnic.
Eating and sleeping in the Berwicks
Another plus: Because they’re off most tourist radar screens, North and South Berwick are a good choice for those seeking food or lodging without coastal crowds or prices (It took me less than a half hour to drive from Kennebunkport).
Fancying classic comfort food? Fogarty’s has been specializing in New England classics since 1960. For picnic fare, pop into Nature’s Way Market, which makes sandwiches to order. At order-at-the-counter Engrain Kitchen, enjoy grain bowls, salads, and stirfry, etc..
And if you want to spend the night, consider Lady Mary Inn (above), a B&B in North Berwick. This masterfully restored, 25-room Queen Anne Eastlake, listed on the National Historic Register, is furnished with plentiful antiques, but it isn’t at all stuffy.
