Wondering what to see and do in Quebec City? I can help. Since I live in Maine, I consider Quebec City as my extended backyard. This 400+-year-old walled city is Paris without jetlag, Europe without the Euro, and I adore it. (Post updated Feb. 9, 2024).
In summer, musicians, jugglers, bands, acrobats, and other entertainers are on nearly every street in the Old City; cafe tables overflow on the streets; flowers are everywhere. It’s lively, energetic, fun, and festive every day. If that’s not enough, add Quebec City’s renowned summer festivals, with nonstop music and French flair.
But don’t rule out a visit in winter, especially for Carnival — nobody does a winter carnival any better than QC. Plus, the city makes a fine base for skiing at Stoneham, Mont Sainte-Anne, and Le Massif; there are shuttle services for all.
Thinking of visiting? Here are my recommendations, as long as you’re willing to hoof around the city’s steep streets and up and down even steeper stairs, you’ll only need a car for one that’s outside the city.
What to see and do in Quebec City
Walk, walk, walk
The best way to discover Quebec City is to don walking shoes and go. Walk the city walls (this is the only fortified city north of Mexico); up and around the Plains of Abraham (named for an early settler); and along the Promenade des Gouvernors and Dufferin Terrace (views! views! views! That’s where I saw the jump-roper pictured). In winter, don’t miss the Chateau Frontenac’s toboggan chute; it’s a blast.
Next, head down the Breakneck Stairs and through Petit Champlain, Place Royale, and out St. Paul Street to the Vieux Port. Perhaps continue to Nouveau St. Roch, then up-up-up the stairs (pictured; an elevator is available, but burn the calories so you can eat without worries).
From the top of the stairs, it’s onward and upward to St. Jean Street, returning through the St. Jean gate to the upper section of the old city.
Along the way, enjoy street performers; shop the boutiques, galleries, and antiques shops; visit museums; and simply feast on the city (see more below, in Eat, eat, eat).
Eat, eat, eat
Food is always in the mix when it comes to what to see and do in Quebec City.
Stroll St. Jean Street
Stroll along St. Jean Street, both inside and especially outside the gate. Don’t miss Moissan Market, the oldest grocery in Quebec City (perhaps Canada), with its narrow aisles edged with all kinds of specialty foods and treats, cheeses and pates; Errico Chocolate, a museum and chocolaterie where you can buy the most fabulous hot chocolates (try the Tanzanian, mmmmm); Tutto Gelato, the owner came from Italy and imports most of his ingredients from there, delicious, authentic, wow; or Le Billig, for authentic Belgian crepes. And there are bakeries and meat markets and so much more.
Join a food tour of a trendy neighborhood.
But don’t stop there. Instead, join the 2.5-hour St-Roch Quebec City Food Tour for a grazing lunch that includes stops for cheese, charcuterie, and a grilled cheese sandwich at Fromagerie des Grondines; vegan dessert (the brownie, offered on my tour, was beyond delicious) at NESS; craft beer and cassoulet at Noctem Artisan Brewers; Labrador tea at Camellia Sinensis Tea Shop; poutine (mais oui!) at Chez Ashton; and hot chocolate (winter) or chocolate-covered ice cream at Champagne Chocolatier. Trust me, even if the itinerary changes, the only thing you’ll be hungry for afterward is more of the same.
Celebrate spring at a sugar shack.
Of course, one should never miss the opportunity to visit a traditional Sugar Shack. Erabliere le Chemin du Roy, located 20 minutes west of downtown, delivers just that, with traditional music, a family-style meal (French Canadian pea soup, bread, maple-smoked ham, traditional meat pie, baked beans in maple syrup, pork-rangs, potatoes, cole slaw, and pancakes: douse everything but the soup with maple syrup, followed by sugar-on-snow (maple syrup taffy), a sleigh ride through the sugarbush, and a tour detailing how 40 gallons of sap is made into liquid gold.
Discover Quebec City’s heritage at the Museum of Civilization.
You’ll find the Museum of Civilization in the lower section of the Old City, facing Dalhousie Boulevard. This museum provides an excellent introduction to Quebec’s history, heritage, and culture with three permanent and seven changing multimedia/interactive exhibits. The blend of old and new, historical and cutting edge, carries into its architectural design and location.
Tour the Chateau Frontenac
Even if you’re not staying here, the Fairmont Chateau Frontenac deserves a visit. You can tour this Quebec City icon, exhibiting detailed Parks Canada displays of artifacts uncovered in the dig below, on your own, using an interactive Apple app, or with a guide.
Even better, drink or dine here. The 1608 Wine & Cheese Bar is like stepping into a library. Opening off of it are The Champlain Restaurant, with a menu focused on updated Quebec cuisine, a wine library, and a cheese room, and Le Sam, a bistro-style restaurant. If you stay here, opt for a plan that includes the expansive breakfast buffet served in Place Dufferin on the terrace level; trust me, the maple crepes alone are worth it.
Pop into Bar Artefact at Auberge Ste. Antoine
Adjacent to the Museum of Civilization, the Auberge St.-Antoine, in the lower city, houses one of my all-time-fave boutique hotels as well as a great bar/cafe, Artefact. Go for a nibble, cocktail, or one of the city’s best hot chocolates (one order of this ultra-thick adult-oriented not-too-sweet elixir, served in a pitcher, is easily enough for three or four).
The auberge is built atop a 400-year-old archeological site, and artifacts found during excavations are displayed throughout the bar and hotel. Artefact Lounge has a window to the underground; tres cool!
View masterworks at the Musee des Beaux Arts.
The Musee des Beaux Arts (Quebec Art Museum) is a gem. Located on Battlefields Park on the Plains of Abraham, the museum houses the largest existing collection of Québec art. It comprises nearly 35,000 works representing 4,000 artists from the 17th century to the present.
The original museum was housed in the ornate Neoclassical Gerard-Morisset building, which opened in 1933. The museum expanded in 1991 to include the renovated Charles-Baillairage building and the former city prison (kids love the old cells). The Grand Hall, an expanse of glass and granite, connects the two.
Pedal along biking paths
Quebec City makes it easy to enjoy bicycling, both in the city (along the riverfront, and outside. Nearby Montmorency Falls and Isle d’Orleans are both great bicycling day trips. The 273-foot falls is a frozen confection in winter, a torrent in summer. The bridge-connected island is rife with farm stands, artisan shops, boutiques, wineries, a chocolatier, and eateries, including sugar shacks.
Soak in a Nordic spa
If you’ve yet to visit a Nordic spa, Strom Spa Nordic, on the banks of the St. Lawrence River, is a great intro. Nordic spas promote a hot/cold/rest routine that leaves one in a thoroughly relaxed state (I felt like overcooked spaghetti).
Specifically, one heats up in an outdoor whirlpool, or by floating with a noodle along the lazy river, or in a Finnish sauna, or a eucalyptus steam room for 15-20 minutes. This is followed by a 5-30 second cold plunge, under an icy waterfall or into a cold pool. After that, one rests for 15-20 minutes indoors or outside on a chaise, by a fire, in a hanging chair, or perhaps wrapped in a fleecy throw.
Repeat the cycle at least three times, and you’ll be the consistency of overcooked spaghetti afterward. Not relaxed enough? Add in a massage, body treatment, facial, or other experience.
Also on the premises is a café, making it easy to relax for the better part of a morning or afternoon.
Enjoy touristy treasures
Yes, touristy, but don’t overlook these popular options when planning what to see and do in Quebec City. Rue du Trésor, the artists’ open-air gallery; the Funiculair (see image), the funky, cliff-climbing glass-walled elevator linking Dufferin Terrace to Petit Champlain; the murals–one facing Cote de la Montagne street near Place Royale, another at the end of Rue Petit Champlain (the latter is my favorite; I think it has more personality and attitude).
I also love the poetry chairs, an art installation designed by Michel Goulet and located near the Via Rail Station in the Vieux Port area. This gift from Montreal for Quebec’s 400th anniversary in 2008 makes me want to plunk down and relax. And the nearby fountain is a fine place for a picnic.
In winter, reach speeds of up to 70km/hour sliding down the toboggan run on Dufferin Terrace.
And really, I could go on and on about Quebec’s calling cards. Just go, and discover them for yourself. You won’t be sorry.
Immerse in Huron-Wendat culture in Wendake
Just outside Quebec City, the people of Canada’s First Nations Wendat share their culture and history at the Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations in Wendake. Begin with a guided museum tour, and consider taking a workshop (I made a Talking Stick). Continue with the Ekionkiestha National Longhouse, where an evening program, Myths and Legends, takes place fireside. While in the area, allow about an hour for the equally enchanting Onhwa’ Lumina, a magical and captivating light show in the woods highlighting the Huran-Wendat Nation’s way of life experienced on a 1.2 km trail.
Complete the experience by staying in the hotel, where the decor revolves around Wendat heritage. And for a real treat, reserve a table for breakfast, lunch, or, ideally, dinner at La Traite Restaurant, where Michelin-starred chef Marc de Passorio prepares inspired fare with local ingredients and French and Indigenous techniques.
Where to stay in Quebec City
Fairmont Chateau Frontenac
You can often find good packages at the Fairmont Chateau Frontenac. The Chateau recently completed a $70 million renovation that included all rooms. Although some retain historical decor, others are more contemporary in style; some are tiny, others palatial; some have to-die-for views over the river and old city.
I didn’t stay on the Gold floor, but you might find it worth the premium rate. That includes breakfast and evening hors d’oeuvres in an exclusive lounge with great views and a dedicated check-in and concierge service.
Parking is pricey. The public lot below on Dalhousie Street is far less expensive. Ditto for the garage off Cote du Palais. Still, it’s the Frontenac, and it’s humongous!
Check out the exhibits featuring artifacts from the adjacent Parks Canada site on the lowest level.
Look for the hotel’s canine ambassador lounging near the bell desk. $$$$
Le Monastere des Augustines
I loved Le Monastere des Augustines, an especially green, nonprofit wellness hotel. The hotel is situated in the former Augustine sisters monastery within the city walls and just off St. Jean Street. First, a little history: In 1639, three Augustine sisters arrived here to open a hospital, now sited in the attached building. Over the centuries, they kept detailed written accounts, leaving an impressive legacy shared through 40,000 artifacts in the onsite museum (the hotel is also connected to a church).
Hotel guests are encouraged to unplug and disconnect. Leave your phone at the front desk, or if you must have access, tuck it into its own cozy, hand-knitted pocket at night. Choose from authentic (bare bones, shared baths, but comfy with handmade quilts topping the beds) or contemporary rooms with Hudson Bay blankets and en suite baths. All rooms have a clean, simple decor and nice bedding; none have a TV, radio, or phone.
Spa, holistic health services, yoga, and other classes are available, and specialty retreats are offered. The onsite restaurant serves northern-inspired fare emphasizing fresh organic and local ingredients for breakfast (breakfast is silent), lunch, and dinner. The multi-choice buffet is augmented with a menu with choices for all diets. So if you don’t like what’s in the buffet, you can order something more appealing (the bouillabaisse is fabulous). In addition, other fresh fare and snacks are available in the boutique. Quietude is expected, so this property is not a good choice for anyone traveling with young children. $$-$$$
Manoir Victoria
I stayed at Manoir Victoria a few years ago and liked it. It has a primo location just off Rue St. Jean in the upper section of the Old City, and B&B rates include a nice hot-and-cold buffet breakfast. It’s an excellent choice for families. The rooms are quite large; there’s an indoor pool and a small spa. Parking is available in the adjacent garage. $$$
Auberge St.-Antoine
Wow, just wow! I first stayed at the Auberge St. Antoine when researching an arts story and fell in love with it. This chic and sophisticated yet cozy boutique hotel shares 400 years of history through displays of artifacts throughout the property. Definitely a splurge—this is a Relais & Chateau property—but rates drop in the off-season, and occasionally you’ll find great deals on the discount sites. $$$$
Hotel Terrace Dufferin
I popped into the Hotel Terrace Dufferin, a B&B tucked behind the Chateau Frontenac facing the boardwalk and river, and chatted with some guests. For budget-minded travelers, this is a find. Rooms are nice but not fussy; some have kitchens. A continental breakfast is available for a small fee (but you’d do better elsewhere on that). Some rooms have balconies overlooking the river and the Terrace Dufferin boardwalk. $-$$
Hotel Manoir de l’Esplanade
On my most recent visit (February 2024), I stayed at Hotel Manoir de l’Esplanade. This cozy, family-operated B&B has a primo location just inside the St.-Louis Gate and overlooking the National Assembly. Rates include an expanded continental breakfast served from 7am-10am (don’t miss the maple pastry), with extras on weekends.The hotel offers indoor parking in a nearby garage at a discounted rate. It also exchanges money without adding a fee. Our room with two queen beds dressed in white was comfy and had a fridge, a Nespresso machine, and stone and brick walls reflecting the building’s 1845 construction. $$
Hotel Champlain
I stayed at the Hotel Champlain during a winter visit and loved it! So convenient. It’s on a quiet street in the upper section of the old city, and everything is at your fingertips. Renovated a few years ago, the hotel has a contemporary decor and offers a complimentary espresso bar and an electronic (fee) wine bar in the lobby. Make reservations through the hotel to enjoy the breakfast buffet. Parking is available for a fee (reserve in advance). Pricier rooms have views; some have fireplaces and whirlpool tubs; all rooms have a fridge. $$-$$$
Ice Hotel
Swaddle yourself in layers and chill out at the Ice Hotel, a seasonal accommodation built from snow and ice. There are rooms, suites, and even rooms with fireplaces. Guests may use a sauna and hot tubs and, of course, an ice bar. It’s an adventure and a brag-worthy one at that. $$$$+
Where to eat in Quebec City
Honestly, it’s hard to get a bad meal. Do a little research, and ask locals; everyone has recommendations. Here are places where I’ve enjoyed meals, from inexpensive to pricey. Another great way to eat and learn about local restaurants and specialty food purveyors is by taking a food tour (as noted above).
Chez Boulay — Bistro Boreal
I savored a memorable lunch at this Chez Boulay — Bistro Boreal on St. Jean Street, within the city walls. Chefs Jean-Luc Boulay and Arnaud Marchand celebrate cuisine inspired by the boreal forest. The menu frequently changes to showcase what’s fresh and locally available. Each dish is artfully presented and delicious.
L’Origin
While you can order à la carte at L’Orygin, a bistro featuring locally sourced organic fare, the Discovery Menu is the best deal and well worth the splurge ($90 Cdn as of March 2023). It features five tasting courses with options also for vegetarians and vegans. You also can opt for a wine or non-alcoholic pairing. You pick a dessert, and then the pastry chef prepares a plate featuring it. Highly recommend.
Cafe Le St. Malo
Located on Rue St. Paul, amidst the arts and antiques shops, the Bistro Le St. Malo is cozy, comfy, romantic, and tres French! It’s tiny, so you’ll likely want to make reservations during peak seasons or on weekends at his little gem. In winter, ask for a table by the fireplace. The food is hearty and delicious. Prices are moderate.
Buffet de L’Antiquaire
Practically next door to Cafe Le St. Malo and a budget find, the Buffet de L’Antiquaire serves humongous portions of good, hearty Quebecois fare; meat pies are a specialty. Unless you’re ravenous, consider splitting a main plate and pairing it with a soup, which comes with a plastic-wrapped roll (I’ll forgive them; this place isn’t about fine dining, it’s more of a diner). My lunch could have served a family of four. There’s seating downstairs, at a counter, and upstairs, too. Expect it to be busy; it’s a local favorite but isn’t really on the tourist radar screen. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served.
Restaurant Ophelia
We didn’t have dinner reservations on a Sunday evening during Winter Carnival, so we plodded along the Grand Allée seeking a restaurant that was open, appealing, and had seats. We hit the jackpot at Restaurant Ophelia, a sleek spot with an open kitchen and dining on two levels. I had the roasted cod (delicious!), and my friend raved about the zucchini radiatori ravioli. Service was excellent. It serves lunch and dinner.
DETAILS, DETAILS:
Everything you need to know is on Quebec City’s tourism site.
Great article! I’ll be in QC City later this month, and I’m definitely checking out the free Cirque du Soleil show, thanks for the heads up 🙂
Vivian is Virtual
VIA Rail’s tour guide
I need to travel (by bus or air perhaps) in September from Camden, Maine to Quebec City for a writers’ conference. I do not want to driver What are my options with public transportation?
The drive is easy, public transportation is not, but if you must, your best bet is to take the train or bus to Boston and then fly to Quebec City (not sure if direct). I’m pretty sure there are no direct flights from Portland–you’ll likely have to go to Toronto first. In either case, it’s far faster and cheaper to drive.
Your article was very helpful and interesting. I am planning a trip to Quebec in August, 2013.
Two questions:
1. Do you know if all your suggestions/recommendations are still relevant or available?
2. Is a completely non-French speaker able to communicate and get around easily?
Thanks!
I need to check on both the Image Mill and Cirque du Soleil shows, but otherwise, yes, all available (ice hotel, of course, is winter only). You can get around without speaking French, but it helps to always greet people with a bonjour or bonsoir, and throw in a merci (thank you) when appropriate. A big smile and a lot of hand gestures help, as does having a pen and pad of paper, so you can write down the name of the place you’re trying to get to or the address and offering it someone for a map/directions. Most folks in Quebec have at least some English and will try to communicate with you, but move on to the next if you’re getting nowhere. And remember, speaking more loudly never helps get the point across, it just makes everyone more frustrated. Will you be frustrated at times? Yes, but stumbling around lost in QC is how I found many of the places I’ve grown to treasure.
Hi, I am visiting Quebec City in the Fall and wanting to cross the border to spend a couple of nights in Maine on my way down to Boston. I cannot find any trains/buses which stop in Maine – I am happy to drive, but can’t seem to find many car hire options which allow crossing the border? Some offer it but say there may be extra fees/charges (on top of the quote given) to cross the border or be an international driver (we’re from Australia) so would prefer getting across the border by public transport and then picking up a car from there.. Any help muchly appreciated!
I’m afraid it’s the punchline to the Maine joke: Yah can’t get there from here. When you cross the border heading south from Quebec City, you’re pretty much in the boondocks, no car rentals likely until at least Waterville or Augusta, maybe SKowhegan, but it’s still a long way. Unfortunately, there are no direct flights to Maine, either. You’re only choice is to find a cross-border car rental, but I’m thinking you’ll likely pay dearly for that. Good luck.
Hello Hilary.
I realize that this post is years old, but I wanted to thank you for writing it. We just got back from a week long trip to Quebec City today and had a ball. We especially wanted to thank you for the Cafe Le St. Malo recommendation! It was not one of the recommendations from the concierge at the hotel (St. Antoine), so we would not have found it otherwise – and it was our best dinner of the week! Thank you so much!
Hilary,
Thinking of celebrating our 40th anniversary in Quebec City. Good idea?
If so, is late August early September a good time or would October be better?
Where to stay, eat, see besides above. How much time is needed to see the best sites? A week, four days?
If transportation is difficult, would it be good to rent a car?
Thanks for any help.
Nancy
Lovely place for an anniversary celebration, and yes, late August/early September should be lovely. In October, you’ll likely also get some nice autumn foliage. If you’re going to spend your time in Quebec City, then as long as you’re avid walkers, you won’t need a car. You will need one, however, to reach some of the outlying sights, although bicycle trails do connect quite a few. You can fly into Quebec City’s airport and taxi into the city. A train operates between Montreal and Quebec City, so that’s another option. If you want to mosey beyond the city, say over to Isle d’Orleans (although you could bike there) or along the north bank of the St. Lawrence up to the Charlevoix region (wonderful for artisanal cheeses and meats), then a car is necessary. Enjoy!
Hi Hilary
Great Article and some wonderful suggestions! We travelled to QC from Portland via Portsmouth and Montreal in Summer 2012. We are back in Portland this coming December and would like to go back up to QC and experience it in the winter, possibly for xmas. Just wondering your thoughts in driving there from Portland, considering snow etc at that time of year? We drove back to Portland direct from QC in about 6 hours but i’m not keen to take the same road if there’s snow and thinking we should allow at least double the amount of travelling time? Would be interesting to hear your thoughts if you have any.
Thanks
The route you took previously is the best and most direct road to QC. Another route, although far more rural, is to connect from Route 27 in northwestern Maine (north of Stratton) and then cut over to St. Georges to pick up the main highway; gorgeous route, but it will take longer and could be in winter conditions. In either case, I would allow 6-8 hours, although if the roads are clear, it will take less time.
QC is wonderful in winter. Far quieter, and if you’re fortunate enough that it snows, it’s simply magical.
Hello, great site, thanks! Traveling from Quebec to Portland Maine in early August- any good places to stop & break up the trip (have two small kids). thanks!
If you’re heading south from Quebec City, Pere Nature, in St. Georges, about 45 minutes north of the border, is a great stop for a lunch or ice cream break (When you see the Burger King and/or Canadian Tire, turn west toward the river at the light and you’ll find it about a block and half down, on the left).
Note: All of these below are detailed in my Moon Maine book.
From Parlin south through The Forks, you’ll see a lot of rafting company bases, most with food options, all family friendly. There’s a small park on the south side of the bridge in The Forks. Depending upon the timing, it’s a great place to watch rafters and kayakers paddle by.
Just south of Augusta, the L.C. Bates Museum, in Hinckley, is a fun cabinet of curiosities–very retro, with a cool and eclectic collection with plentiful kid-friendly exhibits. It’s right on 27, so an easy stop. Trails behind it for running off steam.
In Augusta, the Maine State Museum is a great and it’s near the capitol, across from a huge park with plentiful lawn for running, and from there, you can access a riverfront trail. Also in Augusta is Old Fort Western, dating from 1754.
If you want to swing out of your way, the D.E.W. Animal Kingdom, in Mount Vernon, is a nonprofit zoo with rescues.
How many full days would you suggest for a visit with a teenager?
That depends upon what the teenager is interested in–history, food, culture? Easily 3 days.
Hillary I thank you for your info. My husband is working a job in Rumford , ME and it is our 43 anniversary and Canada is on the bucket list. We got our passports so we could take a week and see some of Canada. I went to Quebec City with a school group in Jan. 2000 (I went back to finish my college in my mid forties) and fell in love with the city. With only a week I have planned a trip leaving Rumford an going to Quebec City then on to Montreal then Oshawa then Toronto and Niagara Falls. We love driving and looking. Do you think this is doable in a week. Also, we rented a car to drive to Maine from Lucedale, MS and plan on driving it to Canada, Do we need any special thing license or permits to drive it across the border? Looking forward to Canada and Maine
Check with the car rental company before you book. Different ones have different rules. As for the itinerary, well, I could easily spend a week in Quebec City and/or Montreal alone. I haven’t been to Oshawa and haven’t spend anywhere near enough time in Toronto, sorry.
Comments are closed.