You can go home again. At least, my return to Sugarloaf Mountain Resort felt that way. I’ve been a Sugarloafer since, well, let’s just say a long time. I first skied here as a child, and for more than 20 years, we spent winters in Carrabassett Valley. Alas, we sold our place just before the pandemic (sound of me banging my head on my desk). It was the right decision then, but I’ve missed the place.
A few weeks ago, I returned to the ‘loaf for a couple of nights at the slopeside Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel in the mountain village just steps from the base lodge. For a ski trip, you can’t beat the location. I came to check out the new lift and trails on Sugarloaf’s West Mountain.
West Mountain comes of age
Truth is, I always liked the ‘loaf’s western flank, with Scoot being one of my favorite trails. It rocks and rolls, ebbing and flowing down the mountain. Sometimes, I’d cut over to Glancer; other times, I’d stay on Scoot until it ran into Windrow. Nothing too challenging here, just solid skiing with good snow.
On crowded days, I’d stay over on this side, taking the clunky old Bucksaw double chair. It was slow, but the crowds were elsewhere, and the skiing was grand. I cried when they took that lift out.
The new, wind-resistant, high-speed Bucksaw Express quad has replaced that old double, providing quick access to Bullwinkle’s, Sugarloaf’s mid-mountain lodge and 12 new beginner/intermediate trails on 120 new skiable acres. Sugarloaf never had enough of the terrain that helps beginners advance to intermediates, and these new trails here solve that problem. And they do so in a way that any skier will love. Tip: Chipper wraps around the mountain’s western edge and delivers swoon-worthy, mostly wilderness views, taking in Crocker Mountain to the Bigelows. Just heavenly.
Another plus: If you already have your ticket or a pass and don’t mind booting up at the car, park in lot E or F on the right side of the Access Road. They edge Bucksaw.
What makes Sugarloaf special
With 1,360 developed, skiable acres, Sugarloaf lays claim to the most skiable acreage in the East (keep in mind that some of it isn’t lift-accessed). Its 4,237-foot summit makes it Maine’s highest winter resort. That elevation also makes its summit Snowfields the East’s only lift-serviced, above-treelike skiing.
Stats are dry, but what really differentiates the ‘loaf is its people. Sugarloafers are a cult. They built this mountain, they ski hard, they play hard, and they’ll defend this place to death. To better understand this phenomenon, I highly recommend reading A Town Build By Ski Bums: The Story of Carrabassett Valley, Maine.” Author Virginia M. Wright meticulously researched this book, as evidenced in the back-of-book Resources pages listing sources consulted and interviews conducted. (Note: A great gift for the Sugarloafer in your life).
Another thing that makes Sugarloaf special is its long season: It usually remains open until May, with some of the best skiing often found from mid-March through mid-April. So, no excuses: There’s still plenty of time to visit during this season. Enjoy!
Where to stay: Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel
Why: Location, location, location
Plusses: 30-person outdoor hot tub, ski lockers, restaurant, fitness room
Worthwhile options: Consider splurging on valet parking ($15/day), especially if the temps are frigid and/or there’s snow in the forecast (unless you love shoveling).
What to know: The hotel charges a 12% activity fee per night, which includes, among other things, nightly s’mores, snowshoe rental, ice skates rental at the Outdoor Center, and ski locker storage.
Where to eat
Bullwinkle’s, a full-service bistro on the mountain.
D’Ellie’s in the base village. Always a great choice for breakfast or lunch.
The Bag, in the base village: You can’t depart Sugarloaf without indulging in a Bag Burger. Seriously, trust me on this.
The Rack, on the access road: Ribs! Pizza! And a rollicking ski bar atmosphere that’s family-friendly.
45 North, in the Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel: The chef here loves playing with big flavors.
Apres-ski
The Widowmaker, on the top level of the base lodge, is usually rocking with live music.
Other good bets are The Bag and The Rack (especially in spring, when the crowd overflows outdoors).
